Traditional food: a heritage, the people’s identity

31 May 2025

PENAMPANG: Traditional food plays a vital role in preserving and celebrating the heritage of an ethnic group. It is more than just sustenance; it is a living expression of their history, culture, and connection to the land and nature. Through their unique recipes and cooking methods, communities pass down stories, beliefs, and customs from generation to generation, ensuring that their cultural identity remains alive.

In these modern times, traditional food remains a special feature of many celebrations, particularly during the Harvest Festival in the month of May. Such dishes are often sold and promoted at these events, whether within the surroundings of the KDCA, at stalls during district harvest festivals, or even in modest village celebrations. These delicious foods, which evoke memories of our everyday fare from the past, are sure to make a memorable appearance.

Rosaline Nuly from Kg Pinasang Tamu Darat, Kota Belud, explained that she learned to cook traditional food from her parents and has always been deeply familiar with edible plants and fishing in the river. She emphasised that the dishes she showcased were passed down through her family, highlighting the importance of preserving cultural heritage through culinary traditions. At the recent United Progressive Kinabalu Organisation (UPKO) harvest festival held at Kadamaian Square, she presented three traditional dishes: Linupit, Linugu, and boiled fish.

Linupit is a special preparation involving river fish mixed with chilli, pepper, and salt, all wrapped in several layers of banana leaves. This parcel is then roasted over an open fire until perfectly cooked, resulting in an aromatic and mouthwatering dish. Linugu, on the other hand, is simply fish roasted over an open flame, served with traditional condiments. Boiled fish is also a common dish, enjoyed for its simplicity and flavour.

Rosaline expressed her aspiration to open her own eatery one day, featuring these traditional items on the menu. She believes that showcasing such dishes at festivals and public events plays a crucial role in ensuring that these culinary traditions are preserved for future generations.

Meanwhile, Rafiqah Tapa from Kg Tinata shared her own traditional fare, which includes freshwater river fish, grilled fish, and Linupit. She described Linupit as fish seasoned with white pepper and turmeric flowers, then wrapped in turmeric leaves and Simpoh Ayer leaves before roasting over fire. She also showcased Bosou, a fermented fish dish wrapped in taro leaves, and a delicious banana blossom dish prepared in a traditional manner.

“This is a local menu crafted by the Dusun people in the old days,” she explained. “It was our everyday food back then, but now it’s less common. You’ll typically find these dishes during harvest festivals or special celebrations.” She concurred that presenting traditional foods during cultural events helps ensure they are remembered and appreciated by younger generations, reinforcing the importance of celebrating and sharing our culinary heritage.

Mulin Gideh from Kg Lebak Noyoh, who also showcased her culinary creations, explained that the traditional dishes she presented were crafted from foraged food plants and wild fruits readily found in the surrounding jungle and river. Beyond the usual vegetables and river fish, she prepared a sambal using Liposu, an old favourite, where the fruit is carefully gathered from the wild, sliced into small pieces or pounded, and combined with salt, chilli, and anchovies to create a delicious side dish. The fruit is notably very sour, making it a perfect ingredient in Hinava, a renowned Dusun dish that highlights the flavours of the wild.

Similarly, Istimah Lasig from Kg Gaur displayed a selection of traditional foods, including boiled cassava and preserved fish, alongside other locally inspired dishes she developed through her own ingenuity and use of natural, foraged ingredients. Both women emphasised the importance of these items, which are collected directly from the jungle and river, as vital links to their ancestors’ way of life, a culinary heritage rooted in the bounty of the wild that continues to be treasured during festivals and special occasions.

Continuing to practise and cherish these traditional foods is a way for ethnic groups to maintain their identity amidst modern changes. It connects them to their ancestors’ ways of living, honours their environment, and preserves the biodiversity of the jungle and river ecosystems. Through food, they tell their stories, celebrate their history, and ensure that their heritage remains a vital part of their community’s future.

Rusnah Tahid from Kg Nahaba concurred, expressing her belief that showcasing traditional food is important and should be a central feature during festivals and celebrations. She emphasised that this helps to ensure the culinary heritage endures across generations. Rusnah shared that she regularly participates in traditional food exhibitions not only to demonstrate her talents but also to promote the preservation of these dishes, which form a vital part of her community’s identity.