Traditional dresses: Maintaining authenticity

11 June 2025

KOTA KINABALU: Maintaining the authenticity of traditional dress amidst the growing popularity of modernised versions presents both challenges and opportunities. To navigate this balance, it is important to approach adaptation with respect and sensitivity. When modernising traditional attire, preserving core elements such as fabrics, patterns, symbols, and craftsmanship is essential.

Recently, at the Harvest Festival in Kg Melangkap Tiong, several young women were seen wearing colourful dresses adorned with patterns inspired by the traditional Kadazandusun costume. These features are integral to the cultural identity of the attire. Several interviewees expressed the view that modern designs should aim to enhance and emphasise these elements, rather than replace or diminish them, provided that the garments remain recognisable and meaningful.

For Heiny Feleria Tingangan of Kg Melangkap Tiong, fashionable dresses featuring traditional motifs are acceptable, provided they are not labelled as authentic traditional costumes.

Lily Dulau and Rosemin Tuah

She believes that traditional attire must incorporate the correct motifs, patterns, and tailoring, as evidenced by historical photographs and heirloom dresses passed down through generations. Authentic traditional costumes are characterised by specific design elements that reflect the cultural heritage and identity of the community.

“Although my dress was ordered online, I do not regard it as an authentic traditional costume. Instead, I view it as a comfortable, modern garment that bears a slight resemblance to our traditional dress, rather than an accurate representation of it,” she said adding that for her, the distinction lies in the adherence to traditional motifs and craftsmanship, which cannot be fully replicated through mere imitation or modern reinterpretation.

For Lomini Kohid of Kg Melangkap Baru, traditional dresses should be reserved for occasions such as the Harvest Festival, weddings, or other events that warrant the wearing of such costumes.

“I recognise that modern motifs and decorations are sometimes added to traditional dresses. They can look beautiful and almost resemble the original costumes, but they should never be mistaken for authentic traditional attire,” she explained.

She emphasised, “The true traditional costume should be preserved in its original form, without any additional motifs or patterns that compromise its authenticity.”

Marlin Sualan of Kg Melangkap Tiong explained that her dress was based on the authentic traditional costume, but she had added embellishments such as glitter and gold piping.

“I was a bit creative with my dress, but it’s not too far removed from the original costume. I wouldn’t claim that it’s an entirely authentic representation of our traditional attire, but it isn’t too different either,” she remarked, adding that she was well aware of the difference and believed that a little trimming wasn’t a sign of eroding the original costume.

Sal Buah Ampau of Kg Melangkap Baru emphasised the importance of preserving the authentic traditional dress, asserting that it should neither be altered nor modified. She stressed that it is essential to teach our children about our traditional costume and share its significance, ensuring they can recognise and appreciate it.

She firmly believed that the traditional costume should remain unchanged and free from additions to maintain its authenticity. To keep it relevant, it should be worn during harvest festivals and other special occasions, thereby safeguarding its cultural significance for future generations.

Rosemin Tuah from Kg Melangkap Tiong concurred with Sal, emphasising the importance of preserving traditional costumes and accessories so that they can be recognised by our children.

“The names of the costumes and accessories should be known, and passed down to the younger generation, ensuring they recognise them. It is essential that our language and dialects are taught to our youth, as the names of our traditional costumes and accessories are rooted in our own language. Maintaining these names helps preserve our cultural identity and heritage.”

Lily Dulau from Kg Melangkap Tiong agreed, though she explained that she prefers to prioritise comfort, for the occasion which is why she was wearing a blouse and pants.

“I just wear this for comfort. Of course, I have my own traditional costume at home, although it’s a bit tight now. My five daughters also have their traditional costumes, and I am pleased to say that we still wear them for occasions such as weddings and other functions.”

Valuing and promoting the cultural roots of traditional dress enables communities to enjoy contemporary adaptations that celebrate heritage without compromising its integrity. There are those who opt for modern versions with decorative trimmings, and then there are the authentic traditional costumes that adhere strictly to the original patterns and styles.