Preserving Kimaragang Heritage: Traditional Tonsom Kimaragang Recipe

1 March 2026

KOTA KINABALU: In the olden days, before the advent of modern refrigeration and freezing technology, communities relied heavily on traditional methods to preserve perishable foods. These techniques were essential for ensuring a steady food supply. Preservation methods such as drying, salting, fermenting, smoking, and pickling were commonly employed to extend the shelf life of meats, fish, fruits, and vegetables. For instance, fish caught from rivers would be pickled with Pangium and rice, allowing it to be stored for months and used when needed.

The Kimaragang people of Sabah has their own way of preservation. Tonsom as they call it, is one of the highly valued culinary heritages among the Kimaragang Dusun community in Sabah. This traditional dish is not merely food but a symbol of identity, ancestral wisdom, and the way of life of the Kimaragang people passed down through generations, shares Rhappindy Maibin, whose mother Elsie Kakas makes delicious Tonsom. They are from Pitas.

“Typically, Tonsom is produced using traditional preservation techniques that reflect our community’s close relationship with nature and natural resources,” he said adding that as time progresses and modern foods emerge, the existence of Tonsom is gradually fading from the lives of younger generations.

“The practice of preparing it, which requires patience and traditional knowledge, is becoming less common to pass down, putting this dish at risk of being forgotten. In truth, Tonsom Kimaragang holds unique historical, cultural, and flavour values. It is a heritage that deserves to be preserved and revitalised.”

He said by introducing Tonsom Kimaragang to the present generation, it is hoped that this traditional treasure can be revived as a symbol of cultural unity, appreciation of ancestral heritage, and proof that tradition remains relevant in the modern world.

Tonsom is not just about taste but also stories of origins, identity, and the continuity of Kimaragang culture, so it can also be a product to be introduced to tourists, he said.

According to Elsie, a knowledgeable custodian of Kimaragang culture, the process of preparing Tonsom is a harmonious blend of tradition, patience, and respect for nature.

The journey begins with selecting fresh water fish, locally called Turongou, (Puntius Binatatus) which are thoroughly cleaned to remove scales and entrails. The cleanliness of the fish is vital to ensure the quality of the final product. Once cleaned, the fish are cut into appropriate sizes that facilitate fermentation and subsequent consumption. This step requires care and precision, reflecting the community’s deep understanding of their natural resources.

Next, attention is given to the tapioca, an essential ingredient that acts as a natural fermentation agent. The tapioca is carefully cleaned and dried, then cut into small pieces or crushed to enhance its fermentative properties. This preparation is crucial as it influences the flavor and texture of the Tonsom.

The fish and tapioca are then combined with an ample amount of salt. Salt not only aids in preservation but also enhances the flavour. The ingredients are mixed thoroughly to ensure even distribution, creating a harmonious blend that will undergo fermentation.

The mixture is transferred into a clean glass or earthenware jar. To prevent spoilage, the mixture is pressed down firmly to eliminate air pockets, and the jar is sealed tightly. This careful packing is essential to create an anaerobic environment conducive to fermentation and to protect the contents from external contaminants.

The sealed jar is stored in a cool, dry place, away from direct sunlight. Over the course of several weeks to several months, the natural fermentation process takes place, allowing the flavours to develop and the Tonsom to mature. Patience is key, as this slow fermentation is what gives Tonsom its distinctive taste and texture.

Although Tonsom Kimaragang is enjoyed as a traditional delicacy, Elsie recommends cooking it before eating. Cooking not only enhances its flavour but also ensures safety and digestibility.

Rhappindy who is called Andy expresses hope that Kimaragang Dusun traditional foods like Tonsom will continue to be developed and appreciated both within Sabah and across Malaysia. These culinary practices are more than just recipes; they are vital expressions of cultural identity and heritage that deserve recognition and preservation.

By maintaining and sharing the art of preparing Tonsom, the Kimaragang community ensures that their rich traditions endure, nourishing both body and soul for generations to come.